Overload

Our last day in Kathmandu was packed with so many sights to see.

We were tired. We had seen so much. However what we did see will stay with us forever.

The sight of hundreds of monkeys at the monkey temple and the Buddhists moving around the stupa clockwise to spin the prayer wheels.

The sight of three holy cows surrounded by thousands of pigeons eating the rice they were given as an offering.

The sight of a water buffalo being unexpectedly sacrificed in front of us. The Nepalese are so calm usually that the violent act left us unsettled. Did I mention I have been a vegetarian since India... (It's ok Ross I think all will return to normal once we are home!)

The sight of the burning ghats and people's bodies being cremated. Unlike the Ganges the river is not very wide and the smoke wafts across the river and across your face. Everything returns to the water. A lovely philosophy however the river is littered beyond comprehension.

And then overload was reached.

We are off to Phuket now to sit on the beach and let everything soak in. We are so lucky...

Lions and Tigers and Bears; Oh My!

During our last two nights in Chitwan National Park we have been able to step back and enjoy the rhythm of the day.

Mornings have been foggy.

The mountains sit in the distance with their snow capped tips seeming out of place among the green forests.

On our jeep safari we saw no lions, tigers or bears.... However we were lucky to see deer, birds, crocodiles, lizards and best of all three rhino; whom we named in order, Ricardo, Rhonda and Ronnie. Rhino are solitary animals and just hang out by themselves... None of them were at all fussed we were checking them out.

Sunsets have been savored.

We joined in with a local troupe of Nepalese stick dancers last night in some traditional dancing. At the point at which Dan had to unzip his polar fleece and fling it to me so he could really unleash his groove I wasn't sure if the locals were ready for his moves...! They all commented afterwards that he is a very good dancer. Nepalese Idol maybe? Ricardo, Rhonda and Ronnie could be judges...

The breeze blows softly in Pokhara

The streets of Pokhara are decorated with hundreds of thousands of Tibetan prayer flags. During the days, which have been sunny and warm the breeze has sent them gently moving, which symbolizes the prayers being offered.

We began today by watching the sun rise at the Sarangot lookout which made the Annapurna range, part of the Himalayas, glow pink for the briefest moment. It was freezing so a cup of tea for 20 rupees was absolute bliss!

After breakfast we hiked to the World Peace Pagoda. The view from the top was worth it! Each time we catch a glimpse of the mountains from a new angle they are breathtaking!

Off to Chitwan National park tomorrow for a bit of jungle time. Hoping for more sunny days with the beautiful soft breeze...

Goodbye India and Hello Nepal

No trip to India is complete without a dose of Delhi belly and we were served our fair share on our last night. Our flight from India to Nepal was very "uncomfortable" as a result. However Dr Dan dished out the antibiotics and now we are feeling like healthy travelers again!

Yesterday we travelled from Kathmandu to Bandipur; a small traffic free village in the hills. The quiet town square was a welcome sight and a delight for the ears after the hectic pace of India. Our room in the guesthouse we are staying in has a small balcony which opens up to views of the Himalayas with their snow caps in the distance.

Dan and I went to go for a quiet walk through the village square this morning to see it transformed. A Nepalese film crew and 40 or so actors and dancers filled the space as a country backdrop for their movie. Kids, shop owners and people chasing a spot to sit in the sun watched on in a quiet manner.

Village life with the backdrop of the mountains is very peaceful... and the cuppa tea served on the terrace just seals the deal!

Varanasi and The Ganges

The holy water of the Ganges is central to the city of Varanasi and the Hindu rituals which some people perform here daily and some people travel from afar to do. Our very long day was bookended by witnessing these rituals.

The morning began with a sunrise boat trip. As our boat rowed down the shore we saw men bathing in the water and making offerings to the gods, washing being beaten and the bodies of those passed being cremated. The water was very still and reflected the pinks from the rising sun like a mirror. The whole trip was so moving... Or maybe we were tired and emotional from the 5am start!

In the evening we placed lit candles surrounded by marigolds into the dark river and they drifted alongside the boat. The lights from the shore were eerily reflected in the water across the river. The opposite side of the river is bare, which highlights the constant activity on the other side. The Hindu people believe that fire is the most pure element and use it during their rituals. Just seeing the burning ghats were the cremations were taking place and seeing the bodies wrapped and waiting left us without words...

And again on sunset the kites filled the sky...

On the Road and Rails

Yesterday we left Orchha and made our way to Kurajaho. The road was lined with people walking, families in rickshaws and in trailers towed by tractors who were returning home from the previous nights festivities.

It took us 4 hours to travel 170km.

Four hours!

We visited the karma sutra temples in Kurajaho, which was a very touristy place where we were hassled by hawkers constantly.

We are now aboard the sleeper train to Varanasi. A twelve hour trip!

I have been much more prepared for this overnight experience.... I have however had flashbacks to the sleeper train in Thailand... honeymoon romance anyone?

Orchha and The Festival of Rama

Orchha is a small town three hours by train from Agra. We arrived to our hotel; a sanctuary nestled by the river on the outskirts of town.

We visited the temple, the palace and the market. It is a very welcoming place where we have been greeted with genuine warmth. Many people we have met have asked where we are from and then the conversation, thanks to Dan, progresses to the test match between India and England. The Indians all foresaw a draw.

Tonight we were lucky to be in Orchha for one the main Hindu religious festivals. People had travelled for over 100km to be present at tonight's procession and ceremony. They sat together in the towns square to eat the dinner they had prepared and brought with them; chappati and various vegetarian curries. We moved through the crowded streets to seek out the procession. Once in a position to wait for the procession to pass, as a group, we attracted a large crowd who stood and stared at us. For some people it is the first time they have seen western people in person. A policeman with his big stick had to move in and direct the crowd along as they were blocking the road. We have been asked by many Indian people to be in their family photos as it is a novelty to see and speak with a westener. A bizarre and humbling experience which results in many giggles on our part. The lady whose house were standing in front of came outside and welcomed us by giving us each a tikka red dot on our foreheads. We were then invited to view the procession from her neighbors balcony to escape the ever growing staring crowed. The procession was an energetic mixture of musicians, dancers and people dressed as Lord Rama whose wedding is the cause for the festival and which is reenacted each year.

A small town with a big heart which swelled in numbers by people's desire to see, feel and connect with their faith.

The Taj

Meg: "Dan, did you ever think when you were a kid you would ever see the Taj Mahal....?"

(Said in a whimsical and rhetorical manner while gazing at the beauty of the monument of a husbands love for his wife while the sun was setting)

Dan: "No. When I was a kid I thought I would only ever read about it in books then I grew up and the Internet was invented and I thought I would only ever read about it on Wikipedia".

I captured it in my mind and my traveling companion captured it in pixels.

Day 3 - Jaipur

Jaipur has been filled with the unexpected.

We are staying at Bissau Palace; a palace still owned by the original family and run as a hotel. When we arrived we had driven through chaotic streets where the day to day business of life was taking place. The gates to the palace were opened and as we entered a quiet green was revealed.

We were woken this morning my Muslim call to prayer which sounds five times daily.

Today we visited the Amber fort which was breathtaking in the mid morning hazy sun. We laughed and clapped along at a Bollywood film this evening. As the curtain went up at the beginning of the film the crowd erupted with cheers, clapping and whistles.

Each evening the sky is filled with many kites flown by kids from rooftops across the city. The power lines in the street are festooned with kites which have become tangled and snagged. The kites themselves are a simple diamond shape stretched on thin wooden supports. They give the afternoon a feeling of calmness and an awareness of the gentle blowing breeze. They are a mark of the day coming to an end.

It is the unexpected which leaves the deepest mark.

Day 1 - Delhi

After arriving at our hotel at 1:30 AM we were woken by the sounds of the busy street below our window. Kids going to school on foot, people off to work in a cycle rickshaw and buses pulling in and out; all talking to each other with a vast array of different sounding horns.

Lunch was had in a tiny Indian fast food restaurant.

We ventured to Old Delhi to visit a Sikh temple and the mosque. As we walked around the mosque made of red sandstone and marble hundreds of eagles circled overhead. An unnerving sight.

Our shoes were taken off and stored while we visited these holy places. Dan overcame his fear of all things germy and resisted the need to aquim his whole body. Our mantra is "Go with the flow". And in the crowded lane ways we had no choice but to do just that.

Ready, set, go!

Bags were packed and checked in.

Indian rupees bought.

Next Tuesday has become today.

The only thing to do now is wait... The adventure has begun...

Counting the sleeps

There comes a time with every trip when the excitement of planning gives way to the realization that everything that has been planned as actually about to happen. We have to go and do this in four sleeps. Yep, am down to counting sleeps not weeks or months!

Looks easy...right? Well we will know in four sleeps.....butterflies in the pit of my belly!